When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.